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DISTANT DIVERSRebecca & Geoff |
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The Journey SouthAfter such a magical sunset up on the top of Mount Ruapehu we started our journey south back to Wellington to catch the interislander ferry across to Picton on the south island.
We found the waterfall we had missed the night before on our way back down the mountain and had a freshen up in the freezing cold water before stopping in Ohakune to fill up on fuel and groceries and continue on our journey.
Back on the road and now following the train route that we had travelled in the opposite direction ten days ago. Back through the farming plains around Palmerston North and along the southern west coast and back into Wellington a few hours later. We spent the night in Wellington in one of the main carparks in the town along with a number of other campervans all waiting for the early morning ferry the next day. After a reasonable nights sleep underneath a bright street light (!) we checked in to the ferry, boarded first and managed to find a comfy seat in the childrens lounge up on the seventh deck. The wind was blowing a gale outside so for the first part of the journey we holed up inside but as we left the shelter of Wellington the waves picked up and started gently rocking the boat so I went outside to make the most of the fresh air and take photos. As the ferry approaches the South Island the speed slows and you take in the amazing scenery of the Marlborough Sounds. I looked out for Dolphins all the way over and Whales, but couldn't see any at all! Maybe next time :) Tongariro National ParkWith only two days left to get back to Wellington we scrapped plans to go to Napier on the South East Coast and instead traveled down through the Tongariro National Park, home to the active volcanic mountains Ruapehu, Ngauruhoe and Tongariro. It is the oldest National Park in New Zealand and a World Heritage Site.
We managed to find a campsite to stop for some lunch and a walk on the flanks of Mount Ruapehu. It was one of the first days of full sunshine so we made the most of it. We had parked up next to a camper that had already been there for a couple of days and the guy told us to take a drive up to the road to have a look at a huge waterfall. Well we didn't find the waterfall until the next morning but what we did find, was the road went all the way to the ski lifts at the top of the mountain and there was a carpark with another couple of camper waiting to spend the night. The lakes in the middle of the North IslandMuriwai Beach was our last stop on the west coast before heading inland towards Rotarua and then onto Taupo.
Our original plan was to aim straight for Lake Taupo but after stopping briefly in Huntly we realised that Rotarua would be worth a visit and for not much of a detour. The AA route guides that we had picked up in Wellington had the i site centre locations marked on them, so Huntly was a convenient place to book our Interislander ferry crossing for the coming weekend. We didn't realise that this i site centre added 10% to their prices until money had exchanged hands and then it was too late. The ladies in there were very friendly but a little too pushy with the "Oh you should really go and see this... but you must book it now with us otherwise you might not get in" etc, etc! So we collected as many leaflets as we could and hurried out to find our own way.
We arrived into Rotarua just after midday and made our way to the lakeside to have a spot of lunch. It probably wasn't the best place to be! This beautifully peaceful lake has a violent history. One of several large volcanoes in the Rotorua region, its underlying magma chamber collapsed after a massive eruption around 200,000 years ago. The collapse created a circular caldera about 16 kilometres wide, which filled with water to form the North Island's second largest lake, lake Rotarua. Geothermal activity continues below and around the lake and you can see clouds of steam drift around the shore. The water has a high sulphur content, resulting in a magical green-blue colouration but a disgusting smell!
We went for a walk to see the famous champagne pools full of laughing gas, but it smells really bad!
Rotarua is a beautiful town and has a huge 1800's Europian architectural influence. We spent some time walking round the gardens infront of the museum and watched a bowls competion in full swing... all the oldies dressed in white :)
We found a lovely campsite for the night just a short distance fom Rotarua on the way to Taupo on the side of another lake.
The next day we made our way to Lake Taupo. Now Lake Tuapo is much less smelly and a really trendy up beat place compared to Rotarua. It's full of backpackers and travelers from all over the world. It's got a really good feel to it, plus when the sunshines it is a stunningly beautiful place! The lake is the largest by surface area in New Zealand. It has a perimeter of approximately 193 kilometres, a deepest point of 186 metres and a surface area of 616 square kilometres.
Baylys Beach to Muriwai BeachSandflies, not one of my most favorite of God's creations... now ranked along side spiders and wasps in my list of dislikes!
We spent the night in Waipoua Forest being chewed and bitten by these small black flies and woke this morning to be bitten some more. After breakfast in the communal kitchen and settling up with the visitors centre for our nights camp, we were back on the road and heading back towards Auckland. We originally decided to get as far as Dargaville but we were making good time after our first stop at Baylys Beach.
It's also on the western coast of the north island and is pretty similar to 90 mile beach, but this time it is bordered by a small town and is manned with lifeguards. A good job too as the waves roll in at quite a height. There is a safe area between two flags where children are body boarding, but further down the beach a man and his daughter try to break through the big crashing waves to try and catch some surf. We watched them for about ten minutes until they finally gave up and joined the rest.
After a quick snack on the beach we continued our journey towards Auckland, remembering this time to top up on fuel at every opportunity!
The scenery in this west coast of the north island is a mixture of the rugged coastline of Scotland or Cornwall combined with the flatlands and farming lands of Norfolk or Suffolk
We arrive at Muriwai Beach mid afternoon and after finding a good spot on the campsite nearest to the beach we set off again to explore the beach area and the Gannet colony. The beach is unique because of its black sand, caused by the iron content derived from the ancient volcanoes in the area. The majority of the black mineral sand is carried up the west coast from Mt Taranaki through the process of longshore drift. This sand is igneous material that was eroded from the volcanic area. Muriwai is home to a wide range of birds but it is the gannets (takapu) that most visitors come to see. There are two viewing platforms provide great vantage points to take in the spectacular location and watch the gannets. We went to up to watch the sunset from the highest platform and watch the Gannets nesting. Apparently the birds return here between July and October to re-establish contact with their life-long mates. After mating, one egg is laid and incubated in shifts by both birds until the gannet chick is born, naked and blind, 45 days later. 90 Mile Beach and it's all going South!We're still waiting for a break in the weather and today may be the day that the sunshine comes out to dry up all the rain!
We left the DOC campsite and slowly made our way back along the 20km gravel road back onto highway number one and headed south parallel to 90 mile beach. You may wonder why it is called 90 mile beach? .... No.... ok then :)
At certain times of the day it is possible to drive on 90 mile beach but only in the right vehicle. Unfortunately we failed on both points, firstly the tide was in and secondly our little campervan was only 2 wheel drive and therefore not suitable for soft sand, or any kind of sand for that matter. However we stopped for a short break to wander the beach and take in the sea air. It is an amazing beach, with rolling waves ideal for brave surfers or like us a quick paddle and a spot of photo taking.
We continued our journey south diverting slightly inland before coming back onto the west coast.
Now a note: If you ever do this journey make sure you look out for gasoline stations and take special notice of the signs that say last fuel for ---km :) mmmhmmm need I say any more! Of course we didn't run out but it was pretty touch and go for a short while!
Eventually we made it down to a fuel stop in Kaikohe, stocked up on some more soft drinks and checked out the local area for campsites. None in the immediate area, but another half an hour or so into Waipoua Forest.
Geoff made the campsite discovery on a really small sign as we were driving through the forest. It adjoined a small visitors centre which was already closed, but we headed into the site regardless and set up camp. Another DOC site right on the edge of river surrounded by tall trees and grassland. Once the picnic table and chairs were set up we went off to explore the river, me downclothed into bikini to freshen up in the cold mountain water... really cold.
I was splashing around when suddenly I felt something in the water nudge my foot. At first I thought it was a fish, but when it kept on bumping me I jumped out of the water only to see a 2.5 foot eel following me. I almost soiled myself!
Anyway the camp had a small kitchen where we met another couple of ladies from England traveling for 7 months so we exchanged stories so far, ate dinner and went to bed being thoroughly bitten by sandflies!
North of the NorthIt's as far as you can go without getting wet!
Cape Reinga is the furthest point north on the North Island of New Zealand and is celebrated with a 20km gravel road leading to it and a lighthouse. If you've ever been to John 'O' Groats you'll be familiar with this kind of landmark. There is the obvious signpost with distances to London, Paris, Sydney etc and gravel walkway leading to the lighthouse.
It's full of Japanese tourists all giving the double handed peace sign for ten identical photographs but despite all that it's worth the visit because the views from the top are pretty good. If you're expecting a welcome party, restaurant and theme park however, it's not for you!
It was however at Cape Reinga that we discovered the Department of Conservation campsites. They are campsites which are looked after by the DOC and offer basic camping facilities ranging from toilet and wash facilities with cold showers or in the serviced sites they offer hot showers, laundry and most other facilities you would expect from a holiday park.
The nearest one to the Cape was Tapotupoto, a five minute drive down to a beach with estuary running into a river and camp spots wherever you chose.
Going North in the CampervanSo we arrived in Auckland a little later than scheduled and managed to find our way to our lodge for the night in Parnell, only ten minutes from the train station. We had been warned against stopping in non-camping areas but the only official campsite was a bucket and spade holiday park to one side of the beach. Instead we parked up on the grass next to another couple of campers and asked them what they were doing for the night. General consensus being that they had stayed there a few nights earlier on the grass and no one had said anything or moved them on. Bonus! The campervan was surpringly warm and comfortable for the first night. We went to bed as the stars came out and woke up to the sunrise. Now I know that beats waking up the sound of an alarm clock. We booked into a Holiday Park site at Matauri Bay about an hours further drive from The Bay of Islands and the nearest land to the site of the Rainbow Warrior. The Rainbow Warrior was the flagship of the international environmental organisation, Greenpeace. It was visiting Auckland for a while before leading a fleet of vessels to Muroroa Atoll to protest against the French nuclear testing in the South Pacific. Just before midnight on 10 July, 1985, two explosions rocked the harbour, sinking the 40-metre Rainbow Warrior. Underwater charges had been placed by frogmen on her hull, blowing two holes in the ship. She sank almost immediately. All the crew managed to escape, apart from the photographer, Fernando Pereira, who drowned. The Journey NorthTo see the most of the land, we decided to travel by train from Wellington to Auckland to pick up our campervan that we would be living in for the next month.
The train is called the Tranz Scenic and travels north from Wellington, the nation's capital through some spectacular scenery including farming plains, mountains and forests, through tunnels and rivers on viaducts.
The train moves at a pretty slow speed and if you go in the summer be warned that the journey may take longer if the tracks overheat... yeah it happenned to us...oh and then the train broke down!
The train has one viewing platform towards the front of the train in the open air and one at the very back of the train which is surrounded by glass windows to have a panoramic view of the land behind you. The train comes with your very own tour guides who give you information about the land you are passing through.
It really is a great way to travel and surprisingly inexpensive for the 12 hours it takes (on a good day!)
Windy WellyWellington, New Zealands capital... and it's a windy place! The way New Zealand is geographically positioned means that the Antartic winds funnel up between the two island and blow your head off... seriously, it's the windy place I have ever been too. Despite that it is a great city!
We stayed with my friend Alex that I used to play football with (in my younger days when I could run the length of a football field without being out of breath). She moved out to New Zealand a couple of years ago with her boyfriend Matt and they live in a lovely flat on a huge hill.
We spent our first day in Wellington, exploring the National museum, Te Papa who had recently managed to get hold of a Colossal Squid for their exhibition. It certainly is colossal but I still wish that it was alive and swimming in the wild although if it helps people to start appreciating what is in the ocean around them then maybe it's not such a bad thing.
It's a really good interactive museum with lots to see and special activities set up for children (and adults if you fancy it). It walks you through the complete history of New Zealand and it's traditions... it is very interesting.
From their we went into the city centre to explore the shopping district and check out the famous i site centre. It's an information centre with a difference. The main difference being that they are actually helpful! It has leaflets and brochures all free for you to take home and AA route maps with accommodation and campsites marked on them. We managed to get our train travel from Wellington to Auckland booked for the next day (which they did for us, for no extra cost) and our nights accommodation in Auckland.
Matt and Alex finished work at 5pm ish and after dinner we went into town for a few jars and some catching up time.
Our trip to New ZealandAt last everything came together for our campervanning trip around New Zealand, so early morning on the 5th Jan we set off for the airport. Amzingly enough we had managed to get our luggage down to two small cases instead of the four we were previously traveling with and left the rest and Jane and Peter's for a return in a months time.
Train travel on the normal rails in and around Sydney is pretty well priced, so when we came to buy tickets to get us to the airport we were surprised at how much it cost. Apparently it is a private line and yeah you pay for it! It would have been cheaper to get a cab I guess!
Anyway we arrived at the airport, checked in and promptly boarded our first flight which took us north along the gold coast to Brisbane. From there we had a short wait of a couple of hours before getting our onward flight to Wellington.
For once we weren't seated over a wing, and we were on the right side of the plane to catch the sunset. It's a beautiful sight to watch the sun drop beneath the clouds while you are riding high above them!
We arrived into Wellington slightly ahead of time but by the time the crew had managed to get the airoplane doors open and we'd filed through immigration it was approaching 1:00am. We caught a taxi to my friend Alex's house in Roseneath and met out first Maori! |
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